Week 2 (Sep 2 - Sep 8)

In this weekly recap, we leave Ireland for Croatia, settle into Baltic life, and eat a lot of good food.

Simplicity in Routine (Sep 2)

Jo & Maeve had a sleep in this morning, so Nora and I went into town and did our favourite things: croissant (for Nora), coffee (for me) and park (for both of us). There's something delightful in a routine with kids. They can predict what's coming next, so they answer some of their own What's Next questions. At home, Nora loves a schedule. On the road, Nora likes to know what to expect - she wakes up asking what the plan is for the day.

Highlights

Nothing new, and that's the brilliance of it.

Big Families (Sep 3)

Neither Jo or I have very large family units. My mum moved to Canada just a few years before I was born, and Jo's family left Poland in the 80s. Everytime we return to Ireland, it feels like a homecoming. My delightful aunts, hilarious uncles and many cousins change somewhat from year to year, but the love is the same.

Watching Nora and Maeve interact with a big family is fascinating, in a setting like last night when 25 people meet up on a farm for drinks and curry. The way the kids are move (or are passed) around, each aunt or uncle with their own approach. A real overwelming sense of belonging that I hope our kids take for granted.

It's wild to think it'll probably be another two years before we're back, and by then Maeve will be Nora's age and Nora will be something new altogether.

Tomorrow's a travel day, as we make our way to 🇭🇷 Croatia in the morning.

Almost Missed Flights (Sep 4)

We've never missed a flight due to our own mistake. It's never happened. Yet, somehow it is one of my greatest flying anxieties. I'm the guy who wants to get to an airport three hours before, while Jo is happy to arrive just in time to board the plane. It's one of the great polarising perspectives in our relationship.

As we spent the day negotiating how early we'd arrive at the airport, we suddenly found ourselves behind a collision on the drive into Dublin. Ten minutes pass. Then thirty. Then an hour. It's at this point the panic settles in. I call the bank to see what insurance the credit card offers. Jo looks up alternative flights (there are no reasonable ones for a few days). We're vocally upset.

And from back seat we hear a cheery Nora pipe up:

"Mommy, relax. Take a deep breath and be patient."

She goes on to demonstrate some belly breathing. Okay. We're raising a Buddhist monk. Even Maeve stops crying for a moment to bask is the not-yet-three year old wisdom.

The traffic lets way. We weave far too fast through the afternoon traffic and abandon our rental car in time to demand a seat on the first shuttle to departures. We beckon help as soon as we step foot within airport, crashing through bag check and security. And it's a kilometer sprint - full out - to get to our gate.

The flight is an hour delayed. Of course. We should have just listened to Nora.

We're in Croatia now. Share more tomorrow.

Toddler Tantrums (Sep 5)

Today was the kind of day that you hide from parents worried about travelling with kids. Nora was two today, and it showed.

• Before we even stepped out of the apartment, she had frosted her left eye with sun lotion. A painful, but valuable lesson.
• Then once out, she either wanted to be held or in the stroller. Neither long term options given our limited grip strength and Maeve's needs as an infant.
• She crashed into a nap at this point, and we took advantage of it and explored the old town of Split.
• She awoke in a restaurant, where we were promptly educated on the right and wrong kinds of pasta sauce (red = good, green = great, white = trash, and we of course had chosen white).
• There was a tantrum about leaving a park.
• Another about going to a park.
• And a final one about where her dolls could and couldn't sleep.

That's okay. Today was rough, sure. But, she's growing and changing. She's becoming more independent and wants to make more decisions. We need to recalibrate our approach given her recent changes.

Tomorrow's a new day. And any day that ends in pizza is a good one.

Highlights

🍽️ Ikra Fish & Wine (Split) - as promised, good fish and Croatian wine.

🍽 Pizzeria Sette Sorelle (Split) - menu is seven pizzas, named after local mountains, they are all exceptional, service as great.

Sisters, but not the Same (Sep 6)

The beach highlights how different our girls are. Nora prefers to stay on the shore, stacking cups, or tossing a ball around. Maeve on the other hand, needs to be in the water. Splashing recklessly and squealing with aquatic joy.

As Maeve has grown, we've needed to relearn some parts of being parents. Maeve's cues are different, as an example.

• When she's hungry (as she often is) she'll smack her lips.
• When she wants someone's attention, she'll let out a quick grunt.
• She'll devour anything near her (edible or otherwise), whereas Nora was definitely up to try things, but would cast quick judgement on whether she'd finish.

The time, and focus, we're spending on this trip is helping me solidify a unique picture in my head of what Maeve is like. And she's interesting.

• She's very social, and up to give anyone a chance.
• She's very physical and wants to touch and feel her way around things.
• She's patient, but not if you're out of sight.

She's her own person, and we're fascinated.

Highlights

🏋 Warehouse (Split) - incredibly friendly local gym, at an absolute steal of price.

🏝 Kasjuni Beach️ (Split) - very popular (for good reason) pebble beach, with crystal clear waters - we rented a cabana and lazed around for the entire afternoon.

Walking and Running (Sep 7)

We joined a historical walking tour of Split and given the unpredictable terrain of the city we had both girls in the carriers. Essentially weighted vests in 30 degree heat. I'm not complaining, but these girls are getting big.

Nora spent much of the tour on her own. While Jo soaked up the knowledge, I tried to supervise from a far, letting Nora roam and explore the old city around her without the feeling of being led. When on her own, she's prone to sitting down and running her fingers across the limestone floors of the old city. She stops and peers into windows with unique figurines. At one point, she walked into a clothing store to "buy swimshorts for daddy". These walks remind me that she's starting to feel more comfortable navigating for herself.

Maeve on the other hand is actively trying to take her first step. If she can get her hands on anything study, she'll shift to a crouch, swinging her weight back and forth building the necessary momentum to stand. Given our hands, she'll pull to standing easily, stepping and even jumping. She'll be running in no time.

Highlights

🍽️ DeListes (Split) - WOW. In a world when dinner can be more about ambience than it is the food, this place reminds us that delicious bites trump all. The owner is gruff in the most charming way, and the food is served in your grandmother's weekend serving dishes. I'm in love.

☕ D16 Coffee (Split) - known locally as the coffee place to go to, trending, small and a delicious iced coffee (amer️icano over ice).

☕️ kava2 (Split) - my favorite coffee spot thus far, incredible coffee, a little closer to our apartment, which means into my body faster.

Plans Change (Sep 8)

We're working out a bunch on this trip. This morning Jo left at 7:30AM to head to a crosstraining class, and we expected the girls to wake shortly after. By the time I was to leave, Nora was only starting to wake. I explained to my sleepy toddler that I was preparing to leave (obvious to me: on Jo's to return). Concerned, she asked:

But who is going to watch us?

I love moments like that. She's worried about her and her sister.

With slow waking girls, we pivotted the plan. Instead of hiking off to the national park, we cruised off to a hotel for day passes by the pool. We do our best to make plans to ensure we're doing something valuable every day. But even a great plan needs to change sometimes.

Maeve loves to swim. She's a fish. She screams and splashes. Her sister on the other hand ate pizza in a bath robe.